Row 12: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 11: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 10: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 9: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 8: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 7: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 6: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 5: ch 1, sc x 24, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 4: ch 1, x 6, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (24) Row 3: ch 1, x 6, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (18) Row 2: ch 1, inc x 6, sl st into the first stitch of the row to connect the circle (12) Thank you for supporting independent crochet designers! Browse all my patterns or check out Gus the Bat and Everett the Bear for starters.This is what the finished bee body looks like.
Repeat for the second antennae: pull up your loop behind the far left edge of the crown between rows 5-6. Pull up a loop behind the far right edge of the crown between rows 5-6. Sc into the stitch to the left in the same row. Pull up a loop between rows 4-5 about two stitches to the right from the center of the bee. Cut your yarn and pull it through the last stitch, then weave it down through the stitch and into the bee’s body. Make 2 tr stitches into the stitch behind, between rows 8-9.
Crochet bee pdf#
(Pssst! Want step-by-step pictures? Go grab the PDF pattern from my Etsy shop or Ravelry store!) Wings – Make 2įind the approximate center of your bee’s back (use the eye placement to guide you). Repeat for the second antennae: start two stitches away from the antennae you just made. Be careful not to pull too tight as you weave down the chain or the antennae won’t be straight. Using a tapestry needle, weave the end down the chain and into the bee’s body. In the second loop from the hook, make a slip stitch. You want two stitches in between the antennae.Ĭh 4. Pull up a loop between rows 4-5 about one stitch from the center of the bee. (Find the antennae instructions for the queen bee further below) 6 dec (6) Antennae for Regular Bee – Make 2 I stuff less at the end to keep the bee’s rear flat. Start stuffing the bee and continue stuffing as you go. Change back to Sunsoaked or Blush Pink before completing last stitch. Change back to Coal before completing last stitch. If making a queen bee, embroider a pink line underneath the eyes, extending about a stitch’s width past the eyes. Pay attention to the color change seam – I try to keep that at the bottom of the bee. Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 3-4 with about 5 stitches between them.
Change to Coal before completing last stitch. Start in Sunsoaked for regular bee or Blush Pink for queen bee Use a small enough hook with your yarn to make tight stitches that keep the stuffing in.
Stitch markers to mark the beginning/end of each round if desired.Pink embroidery floss to embroider cheeks on queen bee if desired.Tapestry needle to weave in ends and embroider.For queen bee, I used Blush Pink, Sunsoaked, Vintage White and Coal.For regular bee, I used Sunsoaked, Vintage White and Coal.The PDF includes step-by-step pictures to guide you in the process of making your very own bee. The pattern is super simple so keep reading! If website patterns aren’t your jam, find the ad-free PDF version in my Etsy and Ravelry shops. Bees, they’re everywhere! Crocheted plush bees remain a perennial favorite so I thought I’d put my own spin on them by creating a crown and making a QUEEN bee.
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